On the air two weeks ago, I promised to publish a fruit tree pruning guide, and I am sort of fulfilling that commitment this week. However, after two weeks of researching this piece, I've determined that almost all fruit tree pruning can be boiled down to two basic concepts, especially this year:
1. It's important to prune before the onset of blooms.
2. Because of this year's warmer-than-normal January and February, the time is right now!!!


Actually, I've put together a list of important fruit tree pruning practices that may actually be more important than exact timing. First, though, let me re-emphasize that it's just flat-out important to consistently prune fruit trees so they will reach their full potential. Pruning helps a tree maintain vigor, improving structural soundness and keeping the tree in harmony with its surrounding area. It takes a little bravery, though, because pruning a beloved tree or vine has been compared to spanking a child — you know it has to be done, but you often cringe at the thought. In the end, however, you know it's going to be best for all parties concerned.

If you to live by these sound principles, you will have more productive fruit trees in 2013.

1. Remove water spouts. They're those branches that grow at 90-degree angles to the branch they stem from. They take all the nutrients and water away from the rest of the branch if you let them grow.
2. Remove all branches that bend down toward the ground. Branches should curve or reach up, not down. Remove all dead and diseased-looking wood as well.
3. Remove any branch that crosses another branch. On windy days, those crossing branches will rub each other. This causes breaks in the bark where insects, fungus and bacteria can enter and harm your tree.
4. Thin branches so sunlight reaches deep into the tree. Fruit trees especially need lots of sun to grow well and remain healthy.
5. Don't use pruning paints. They are ineffective. If you feel the need to "seal" the cut, use Elmer's Glue.
6. Step back often when pruning, and circle the tree to see how it looks from various angles.
7. On almost all trees that you are not training on an espalier system (ABOVE), you always want a slightly domed shape. And the bottom should look like a steep bowl. (RIGHT)
8. Remove the buds and fruit on all newly purchased citrus for the first two years.
9. Thin the crop, especially on stone fruit such as plums, peaches, pears and apples. Try to leave one bud every 4-6 inches.
10. Always prune with "ease of picking" future fruit in mind.

Fruits Normally Pruned in January or February
(In other words, might as well do it now!)

Fruits Normally Pruned February or March Just Before Bloom Set
(In other words, might as well do it now!)

Tropicals and Others Only Pruned of Dead Wood
(In other words, if they aren't freeze-damaged, we actually want them to get bigger with existing wood.)